Why Retirement in Atenas Works: Scenic Drives, Climate & Community
- International Property Alerts
- October 10, 2025
Last July, my husband Jim and I, both 50-something Midwest lawyers, earned a 30-day stay in Costa Rica, the 2024 Global Retirement Index champion. For years, we’d dreamed of early retirement abroad, drawn to Costa Rica’s proximity to the US, year-round warmth, and blend of beaches, mountains, and rainforests. We chose Atenas, a Central Valley mountain town, to see if it could be our retirement haven. Our first night, mountain fog drifted outside our window; by morning, howler monkeys greeted us. It felt like the start of an adventure. As we settled in, we also found ourselves browsing international real estate listings to see what life here might truly look like long-term.
Atenas: The World’s Best Climate?
Atenas, with its 30,000 residents, boasts a small-town charm and claims the “best climate in the world.” Nestled in the Central Valley, it enjoys steady temperatures, highs in the mid-80s, lows in the mid-60s, cooled by breezes that make air conditioning unnecessary. Open-air homes and restaurants are the norm, embracing the temperate air.
The town offers modern conveniences: full-sized grocery stores, a lively Thursday feria (farmers’ market), a Maxi Pali warehouse store, banks, and a 24-hour medical clinic. The central square, anchored by a white-washed Catholic church, buzzes with activity, a playground, bakery, boutiques, and ice cream shops perfect for people-watching. Just 45 minutes from San José’s airport and top medical facilities, Atenas is also an hour from Pacific beaches, blending accessibility with adventure.
Our Home Base: Hotel Villas de la Colina
We settled into a casita at Hotel Villas de la Colina, 2,500 feet above sea level, just eight minutes from downtown Atenas. At $1,200 for November, our apartment had no AC or heat, none was needed. The hotel, run by Tico Tania and her American husband Kevin, offered a pool, traditional Costa Rican breakfasts, and stunning views of rocky peaks, San José to the east, and the Pacific on clear days. Tania and Kevin treated us like family, answering endless questions and making our stay feel like home. Morning fog gave way to sunny afternoons, with mists returning at dusk, a serene rhythm. Experiences like this reminded us why Costa Rica is often ranked among the best countries to live in.
Dining in Atenas
Atenas’ dining scene is diverse. The classic casado, beans, rice, protein, salad, and fried plantains, is a staple, best at roadside mom-and-pop spots. El Fogon Campesino served our favorite patacones, crispy plantain patties topped with beans or vegetables. For variety, Atenas offers Chinese, Thai, pizza, and pollolandia (fried chicken). Expat-friendly spots include:
- Monsoon Asian Bistro: Thai curries and tikka masala from stacked shipping containers.
- Cafe y Nata: A courtyard coffee shop with sandwiches and pastries, popular with Americans and Canadians.
- Kay’s Cafe Pequena Polonia: Run by Ania, a Polish-Canadian expat, it’s a unique hangout.
These spots guaranteed English-speaking company, easing our transition.
Coffee and Culture: El Toledo Coffee Tours
A highlight was visiting El Toledo Coffee Tours, a sustainable family farm near Atenas. Gabriel and Ivette, with their daughters Samanta and Isabella, guided us through their fields, showcasing coffee harvesting, roasting, and even wine made from coffee bean skins. Sampling their dark, medium, and light roasts was a delicious dive into Costa Rican culture.
Finding a Home: The “Coconut Wireless”
Expats advised renting before buying, using the “coconut wireless”, word-of-mouth networks to find deals. Rentals range from $600/month for basic apartments to pricier options in gated expat communities. Many retirees rent long-term, living with Tico landlords for affordability. Buying requires a trusted Tico attorney, as remodeling delays are common. Some expats purchase homes to rent out, but leaving properties unattended risks theft or mildew, especially in the rainy season (May-November).
Wildlife and Nature
Costa Rica’s wildlife is ever-present. In Atenas, we spotted coatis, toucans, and monarch butterflies from our deck. In Quepos, Capuchin monkeys used our hotel patio as a path, and howler monkeys’ chants echoed like hymns. The lush surroundings made every day feel like a safari.
The Pura Vida Lifestyle: A Double-Edged Sword
Costa Rica’s “Pura Vida” motto reflects its laid-back pace, perfect for vacations but sometimes frustrating for residents. Slow government processes or contractor delays test patience, driving some expats back home. Others, settled for 20+ years, embrace it fully. We met happy retirees who’d never leave, drawn to the community and natural beauty.
Lessons for Our Retirement
Our month in Atenas taught us plenty. We loved the cool mountain air, lush greenery, and active expat scene, hiking with a diverse group one Sunday was a highlight. But we craved variety in climate and cultural attractions like museums or ruins, not just outdoor adventures. We decided Atenas suits us best as snowbirds, returning during the dry season (December-April) to escape Midwest winters. Our new friends, Tania and Kevin, and the expat community ensure we’ll be back. If you’re considering a move of your own, feel free to contact us to explore your options.
FAQ
Why choose Atenas for retirement?
Atenas offers a temperate climate (mid-60s to mid-80s), small-town charm, modern amenities, and proximity to San José’s medical facilities and Pacific beaches. Its expat community and “Pura Vida” vibe make it welcoming.
Is the climate really the best in the world?
Atenas’ consistent temperatures and cool breezes make it feel that way. Most homes lack AC or heat, as the weather rarely demands it, unlike hotter coastal areas.
How affordable is living in Atenas?
Rentals start at $600/month for basic apartments, with luxury options higher. A couple can live comfortably on $1,500-$2,000/month, including food from local ferias. Dining out is diverse and budget-friendly.
How do I find a home in Atenas?
Rent first via the “coconut wireless” (word-of-mouth). Avoid buying sight unseen; hire a Tico attorney for purchases. Long-term rentals with landlords are common and affordable.
Is it easy to integrate into the community?
Yes, expat hangouts like Cafe y Nata and activities like hiking groups foster connections. Ticos are friendly, and English is common among expats, though learning Spanish deepens ties.
What’s the downside of living in Atenas?
The “Pura Vida” slow pace can frustrate, especially with bureaucracy or contractors. The rainy season (May-November) brings mildew risks, and constant warm weather may feel repetitive.
How’s the wildlife and nature?
Abundant! Expect toucans, monkeys, and coatis, even in town. The Central Valley’s lush greenery and mountain views are stunning, with nearby beaches and rainforests for exploration.
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