Living in Sicily: A Safe and Rewarding Expat Experience

Sicily’s reputation has been shaped by decades of cinematic drama, from The Godfather to Goodfellas, which paint the island as a hotbed of organized crime. While the Mafia, or Cosa Nostra, has historically been a presence, its influence on daily life for residents and expats is minimal today. Palermo, the island’s bustling capital, often surprises newcomers with its safety and charm. According to the 2024 Crime Index by Il Sole 24 Ore, Palermo is safer than major Italian cities like Milan, Rome, and Naples, making it a viable destination for those seeking a blend of Mediterranean allure and urban vibrancy.

Crime in Palermo: What to Expect

Like any popular tourist destination, Palermo experiences petty crimes such as pickpocketing and bag-snatching, particularly in crowded areas like the Ballarò and Vucciria markets or near iconic sites such as the Palermo Cathedral. These incidents are opportunistic and typically target distracted visitors rather than residents. The city’s historic charm, Baroque churches, medieval palazzos, and lively street music, can make it easy to lose focus, especially for tourists unaccustomed to urban environments.

Expats can stay safe by adopting simple precautions:

• Situational Awareness: Keep your belongings secure, especially in busy areas. Use crossbody bags or money belts, and avoid flashing valuables like expensive phones or jewelry.
• Secure Storage: Store wallets and phones in hard-to-reach places, such as inner pockets or zipped bags.
• Nighttime Safety: Walking home from restaurants or bars at night is generally safe, but stick to well-lit areas and avoid overindulging in local favorites like Aperol Spritz or Nero d’Avola wine, which could impair your judgment.
• Residential Areas: Expats living in neighborhoods like Mondello or Politeama face even lower risks, as these areas are quieter and less tourist-heavy.

These precautions are no different from those you’d follow in Paris, Barcelona, or New York, making Palermo’s safety profile comparable to other major European cities.

The Mafia Myth: Is Organized Crime a Concern?

The question of the Mafia looms large for many considering a move to Sicily. Hollywood has perpetuated the idea of a dangerous, ever-present mob, but the reality is far less dramatic. Nico, a local expert from WeArePalermo, a trusted resource for residents and visitors, clarifies: “The Mafia exists, as it does in many parts of the world, but it’s not a threat to everyday citizens or expats. Their focus is on larger schemes like politics and business, not on individuals walking the streets or settling into Sicilian life.”

Organized crime in Sicily has been significantly weakened by decades of law enforcement efforts, including high-profile arrests and asset seizures. For expats, the Mafia is unlikely to impact daily life, whether you’re renting an apartment in Palermo’s historic center or buying a villa in Taormina. Instead, you’ll be more preoccupied with savoring Sicily’s delights: biting into a warm arancina stuffed with ragù, cooling off with a tart lemon granita, or strolling through ancient streets under the Mediterranean sun.