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After decades of thriving in Chicago’s fast-paced urban scene, we traded city stress for the serene hills of Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula, a Blue Zone where longevity and happiness flourish. Leaving behind our successful salon and a polarized America, my husband Daryl and I sought a life of peace, purpose, and connection. In Caimitalito, we built Casa Las Nubes, a self-sustaining 6,000-square-foot haven amid 5.5 acres of lush greenery. Inspired by James Baldwin’s call to “begin again,” our journey as a gay Black couple to gentlemen farmers in Costa Rica has redefined freedom. Here’s our story, from leaving Chicago to embracing a vibrant, affordable life in the clouds, plus a FAQ for those dreaming of a similar escape and exploring international property opportunities.
In Chicago, we built Van Cleef Hair Studio, a sanctuary in a former Gold Coast church, serving a diverse clientele, students, postal workers, celebrities, and the Obama family, with Michelle as a loyal client for 28 years. For over 40 years, 20 with Daryl, we fostered community, especially for Black women, creating a haven of empowerment. Closing the salon after a 17-year search for a successor was heart-wrenching, as was selling our Streeterville condo and shipping our belongings. The emotional void of leaving our village of friends and family lingered, but the promise of a new life fueled our resolve.
Costa Rica checked every box: affordable living, quality healthcare, minimal racism and homophobia, a stable democracy, and warm, welcoming people. The Nicoya Peninsula, with its Blue Zone status, where residents live past 100 with vitality, offered a rural lifestyle near essential amenities. In 2005, we purchased 5.5 acres of hilltop land with 360-degree views of untouched green hills for $180,000, a stark contrast to Chicago’s soaring property costs. The move was daunting, but shedding 30 pounds each from stress-free living, daily gardening, and sun-dried laundry confirms it was worth it.
Our Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired home, designed in an African compound style, blends open-air structures with Costa Rica’s natural beauty. Construction cost $450,000, including hilltop leveling and a driveway to the highway. Despite a contractor’s deceptive practices, the result is a 6,000-square-foot masterpiece with a 1,100-square-foot casita for our caretaker. A guesthouse rental welcomes visitors, sharing the peninsula’s magic. Annual property taxes started at $69, rising to $1,700 after construction, plus a temporary Luxury Home Tax of $1,700, still a third of our Chicago condo’s taxes. If you’re considering buying property abroad, our guide covers due diligence, tax planning, and contractor vetting.
Climate change drove electricity costs to $800-$1,000/month due to water pumping for our pool and gardens. In 2024, we installed solar panels, slashing bills to $200-$300, aligning with our eco-conscious ethos. Our land produces organic fruits, mangoes, avocados, limes and vegetables, reducing grocery costs to $200-$300/month. A well supplies water, ensuring self-sufficiency. Daryl’s farm-raised background, honed in an Amish/Mennonite community, guides our gardening and maintenance, making Casa Las Nubes a sustainable sanctuary.
The Nicoya Peninsula blends old-world charm with modern conveniences. Nicoya town, 20 minutes away, offers markets, restaurants, and the historic San Blas temple (1522), a colonial gem amid lush plazas. Community festivals, like the Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe, fill the square with music and tamales. Liberia’s airport, 80 minutes away, connects to the U.S. and Europe, while Playa Samara’s beaches are a 20-minute drive. Slow traffic, cargo trucks or grazing Brahman cattle, adds charm to rural life.
Our village, Caimitalito, fosters harmony across socio-economic lines. We’ve befriended the mayor, our doctor, and our housekeeper, all within 10 minutes. Crime is low, with petty theft rare, and the community feels like family. Daryl, nicknamed “Dario” by locals, leverages his Spanish fluency from years in Chicago’s Puerto Rican community. My Spanish is a work in progress, but locals’ patience encourages me. A 10-minute walk to our local soda yields a $5 casado , a hearty plate of rice, beans, plantains, and meat, served with smiles.
Costa Rica’s healthcare system is a game-changer. After a 3.5-year wait for temporary residency, our combined insurance costs dropped from $1,200/month in the U.S. to $56/month, covering most prescriptions. Doctors make house calls at no extra cost, and a $76 emergency visit felt like a steal. Private clinics in Nicoya or Liberia offer U.S.-standard care for $50–$100/visit. Living costs are low: $1,500–$2,000/month for a couple, including rent ($500–$800 for a two-bedroom), groceries, and dining out ($5–$10/meal). For those planning a long-term move, exploring options for financing property overseas can make the transition smoother and more affordable.
Mornings begin with birdsong and gardening alongside Daryl, harvesting ingredients for meals like gallo pinto. Our diverse circle, Canadians, Americans, Ticos gather for beach picnics or yoga at Playa Samara. Volunteering at a Nicoya animal rescue connects us to the community, echoing Maya Angelou’s caged bird singing for freedom. Nina Simone’s Feeling Good resonates as we embrace this liberated life. Guests at our rental share our joy, marveling at the peninsula’s sunsets and howler monkeys.
Challenges exist: rainy seasons (May-October) bring mud, and bureaucracy, like residency delays, tests patience. Yet, the pura vida spirit, slow, joyful living, outweighs these hurdles. The peninsula’s Blue Zone lifestyle, with fresh food, active days, and strong community ties, fosters health and happiness. We’ve found not just a home but a purpose, rooted in sustainability and connection.
Our escape to Costa Rica transformed us. Casa Las Nubes is more than a home, it’s a testament to starting anew, inspired by Baldwin’s words. The Nicoya Peninsula’s affordability, safety, and warmth have given us peace and purpose. Whether you seek retirement, remote work, or a fresh start, Costa Rica offers a canvas to paint your dream life. Visit for 90 days on a tourist visa, explore the peninsula, and let its magic draw you in, as it did us. For personalized guidance on your move, contact us.
A couple can live comfortably on $1,500-$2,000/month, including rent ($500-$800 for a two-bedroom), groceries ($200-$300), and dining out ($5-$10/meal). Singles need $1,000-$1,500. Local markets keep costs low.
Yes, it’s very safe, with low crime rates. Petty theft is rare, and communities like Caimitalito are tight-knit. Police are approachable, and expats feel secure day or night.
Basic Spanish is helpful for daily life and bureaucracy, though some locals speak English in tourist areas like Samara. Apps like Duolingo or local classes ($10-$20/hour) aid learning and foster connections.
Tourist visas allow 90-day stays, renewable by leaving briefly (e.g., to Panama). Temporary residency ($1,000/month income for retirees, $2,500 for others) takes 2-4 years. The rentista visa ($2,500/month) or pensionado ($1,000/month) are popular; consultants ($500-$1,000) streamline applications.
Public healthcare via residency costs $50-$100/month for a couple, covering most services. Private clinics in Nicoya or Liberia charge $50-$100/visit. Doctors are attentive, often making house calls.
Yes, with no restrictions. A 5-acre plot costs $100,000-$200,000; homes range from $80,000-$300,000. Annual taxes are low ($100-$2,000). Hire a local lawyer to ensure clear titles.
Roads are paved but slow due to cattle or trucks. The Internet (20-50 Mbps, $30-$50/month) supports remote work. Liberia’s airport (80 minutes) connects to the U.S. Beaches and towns are 10-20 minutes away.
Join Nicoya’s organic markets, yoga classes, or volunteer groups (e.g., animal rescues). Facebook groups like “Nicoya Expats” and soda meetups foster friendships. Ticos welcome respectful newcomers who engage locally.
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